So the ferry from the mainland (Oban) to the Isle of Mull (Craignure) involves loading the rental onto (and into) the belly of the CM ferry for the one hour crossing.

After the off-loading that’s when things get interesting, but first off there’s a side trip to Duarte Castle, the seat of the Chief’s of Clan MacLean.

Duarte has had a very long history, dating back over 700 years. That’s a long line of who killed who and long memories, grudges, and the Campbell Clan and the Stewart’s and the Jacobites… you need a playbook to follow along!

The castle was in ruins by 1910 when the restoration effort began, and it was a shell of it’s glory days, just some of the exterior stone walls (only about 3 meters thick) and no roof, no interior. It has come a long way and the restoration is ongoing.

So the interesting part is that the road across Mull is a single track most places, so that’s cars, trucks and buses headed for imminent collision at a closing speed of 60 mph in a local game of chicken to see who flinches and pulls over first. Seriously though, the locals are quite polite and we get the hang of who should flinch first and give each other the polite wave (full hand, no single digits…). It’s about 90 minutes of this to cross the island!

It’s more like this…

Along the way we pull over to make the overland hiking trek into the Camas Center, a former stonecutters compound that is now a Scottish Episcopal retreat, primarily for inner-city youth. The walk in across the fields and moors is beautiful and Camas is a most peaceful place. The local sheep most heartily agree.

And forgot to mention the furry and horned Highland cows… (the Scots call them coo’s)

We get to Fionphort in time to catch the second to last ferry for a very short trip to another isle, the Isle of Iona, also known for the Abbey of St. Columba, who apparently was banished from Ireland (why?) and established an abbey at a location within sight of the fair isle. A patron saint of Scotland, BTW…

The port at Fionphort. Behind the boats the islands are all pink granite rock, just like Northern Vermont, but in Scotland…

Had to experience this (once) to kickoff the day – the full Scottish breakfast. A very filling plate of – haggis, black bread, potato scone, baked tomato, baked beans, uncured bacon and an egg. The haggis actually had more of an onion and spice kick than anticipated!